Dear Family and Friends,

I’m writing from my new home. The evening is cool and calm, with the sort of glowing blue sky that only seems possible in the tropical light. Today was a bright sunny day — good for laundry and installing my solar panel battery unit. Good for an hour of reading in the shade for the hottest part too.

I officially swore in as a Peace Corps Volunteer on September 1st. I took the oath that all public officials take to “defend and protect the Constitution against all enemies” etc etc, as well as a second Peace Corps-specific pledge. The first oath just made me feel the need to reread the Constitution and figure out just what exactly I was promising. But the second pledge — to serve others, to share openly and creatively, to join the Peace Corps community past, present, and future, and more — that pledge made me proud and happy. It did feel “real” after that. During the ceremony I had the opportunity to give a speech in Kabye, the local language I am learning. I was a bit nervous but I did it! And I received several kind compliments on it after. I’m grateful for the opportunity to show my commitment to and enjoyment pf learning local languages.

Saying goodbye to our host families near Pagala Training Center was bittersweet. Sad to have some of our first goodbyes, but we were off to exciting new things! Our host families in Tomegbe arranged a goodbye party with traditional music and dance, followed by the club/pop/party music after. The dance was amazing to watch — and interesting to participate in. Each of our host moms took us in to the circle in turns to do the dance. The next morning we said goodbye with a few tears all around. I and the other volunteers plan to stop by and say hello when we have our 3-month-in training in December.

The week leading up to swear-in was spent in Lome. We had some final formalities to cover and some big shopping to do. (There’s always a “big shop” with any move, and we all wanted to take advantage of transporting our stuff with Peace Corps’ fleet of Land Cruisers). For me, the week in Lome was also a welcome return to the ocean. Our hotel was right on the water and I got to enjoy watching the waves and the moonlight every night.

I also had the total delight of seeing Jana — a friend from my time in Martinique — in Lome. I felt the scene could have been a great start to a novel or film: an American and a German meet at hotel bar in Lome, Togo. They last saw each other at a beach party in Martinique, but truly got to know each other on a shared holiday on St Lucia. To top it all off Thom — the Australian friend who introduced us in Martinique — had internet connection that night and messaged me as Jana and I were chatting. I called him and he was happily surprised to see us together :

“I feel like I’m in Saint Lucia!”

Jana asked, “Where are you now?”

“Moscow!”

I’m currently reading “The Songlines” by Bruce Chatwin — there’s something particularly enjoyable about reading good travel literature while traveling or living abroad. So much of it is about memories connecting across space and time, helping you make sense of the newness you’re experiencing. The chance to speak about all those sort of connections with folks I met while traveling is delightful.

These first few days at site have been a new adjustment. The tiredness from three months of training and long travel days hit hard the first couple of days. There’s work to be done setting up my house — getting the solar panel working, ordering furniture from the carpenter, having the mason in to finish sealing off some of the concrete. There’s adjustments too of figuring out how I want to cook my food, arrange my days etc. And of course there’s so many people to meet and the work to begin. Luckily, Togolese culture is much more in favor of a good rest than American culture can be. I’ve got a nice set of folks checking in on me and helping contact all the right people.

It’ll be a while yet until I’m feeling confident and in a routine. But nonetheless, I’m where I am supposed to be. The sky and land are beautiful. Folks are kind. I’m catching up on my reading and journaling.

I hope everyone stateside is enjoying the end of summer. I know I’ll be jealous of the fresh apples and crunchy leaves soon. But harvest will be starting soon here too.

Sending love & health to all,

Janet