Updates from Martinique at the end of December.

Dear Friends and Family,

Another month has flown by! I can hardly believe it is nearly Christmas. The weather has changed very little from my arrival, but the nights are slightly cooler and the ocean has cooled down some. To me, the change is minuscule but the teachers I work with assure me it has in fact gotten cooler. But when my students say “It’s cold”, the teachers energetically correct them to “It’s cool.” So, the adults, at least, are aware of the year-round good weather here.

The schools’ holiday break began on December 17th and will last until January 2nd. This means I’ve technically completed half of my teaching contract! I imagine in the pre-covid world this would feel like quite the accomplishment. My first semester of teaching has, however been rather haphazard. I work with seven different teachers, across two schools, in twelve different classes (I see each class once a week). In any “normal” year it would take some time to get into the rhythm of this schedule. As we all know now, nothing as been “normal” for a long time.

Prior to the fall break in November (the congés de Toussaint), classes were taught in a hybrid model. There was a “group A” set of students and a “group B,” and they alternated weeks for who was present in school and who was doing distance learning. This means that at best I saw each of my students two times during the month of October. And I believe, I may not have even gotten that lucky for many of my students due to the slow administrative start in figuring out my schedule. Coming back from the fall break, the hybrid model was suspended and all students were present in class.

As fate would have it, after two weeks of classes with all my students, schools were shut due to a series of strikes across Martinique and Guadeloupe. The strikers (protesting against vaccine mandates and health pass requirements to enter restaurants, bars, and venues) took over and blocked major roundabouts across the island. This essentially halted most movement around the island and there was no public transportation for the duration. The strikers eventually agreed to a series of meetings which allowed things to open up a bit more. One more roundabout was blocked by a semi whose driver said he was protesting the fact that there had been so many blockages. (You can’t say life isn’t funny). During the meeting between strikers and government representatives, one of the ministers tested positive for covid. This sent all the major leaders of the strike home for quarantine. (It could all make for great satire, if it wasn’t real). So roads opened back up completely, buses started running again, and classes resumed for the last couple of weeks before Christmas break.

All this to explain that although I am half-way through my teaching contract, I don’t feel that end-of-semester accomplishment one might expect because I hardly feel like I’ve begun my job! In reality, I have begun my job, and re-started, and re-started again, etc etc. But of course, I have learned and experienced a lot. I’ve learned I quite enjoy the energy and enthusiasm middle schoolers put towards their classes. I’ve realized how much I miss working the writing center and as a peer tutor in college. And I’m learning a lot about balancing between a myriad of peoples’ expectations, assumptions, and teaching styles. I’m attempting to learn how to balance a “go with the flow” attitude alongside holding myself and my students to high expectations. And I’ve probably learned so much more that I’ll only realize once I complete the year.

With friends, I’ve visited more spots on the island, mostly beaches and hikes. Myself and another assistant, Laura, attempted to visit some museums and famous buildings in Fort-de-France. We soon found out that despite what information we may have seen elsewhere, the museums were all closed. We managed to see one small photography exhibit in the lobby of a theater. And, of course, we saw the outside of many a closed building. It is still nice to wander about, but I hope some museums and cultural institutions will open up before I leave.

Last weekend, I went on a lovely short hike to a waterfall the Chutes de Couleuvre. The hike boasted many magnificent trees with incredible roots and vines. I may go back someday just to draw. We also saw a tarantula! It was shockingly large. But apparently (these ones at least) are not dangerous to humans. But I didn’t go too close to it, all the same.

A couple of days ago, I visited Grand Rivière, the town at the very northern tip of Martinique. It’s a cute small town surrounded by dramatic sheer cliffs on all sides. The ocean is much more wild, with huge waves and strong winds. (We looked but did not swim). It’s quite beautiful, but I am glad that my local beaches are on the calmer Caribbean side.

I keep myself busy, in a relaxed island-life kind of way. I have been painting and drawing more! It’s felt great to be back into the habit of creating art. And there’s much to inspire it here! Every day I marvel at the sunsets, the clouds, the brightness of the moon and stars. Mostly, I’m hypnotized by all the new colors, and how much the colors can change! I’ve begun taking time lapse videos of sunsets whenever I can just to try to capture how much change there can be. I’m also reading whatever books I can lay my hands on. (There’s a small street library box by the beach I’ve been borrowing from.)

For Christmas Eve, my housemates and I are hosting a dinner for any assistants and friends who are here in Martinique and want to come. For Christmas Day I’m not quite sure what I will do beyond calling some friends and family. Traditionally Christmas and Advent are very festive times in the West Indies. But with covid some things have been out-right restricted and others just have less energy behind them. I may go down to Schoelcher and see what is happening in the church.

If I don’t speak to you before I’m sending lots of holiday cheer to everyone! Wishing you all a merry Christmas and a safe and happy New Year!

with love,

Janet

Schoelcher, Martinique, December 20, 2021